The historic canal town of Zhouzhuang is affectionately known as the "Number
One Water Town," and its combination of charming bridges, enchanting narrow
alleys, well preserved historic homes, and an array of small museums undeniably
earn that moniker. While this charm has brought a steady flow of tourists from
around the world, its popularity also means that the town has developed an
excellent array of sights and services for tourists. Visitors to Zhouzhuang can
spend the night in a restored mansion, eat in traditional restaurants, see
performances of local operas, and watch craftsmen shape local handicrafts as
they have for centuries. These amenities, combined with its unique charm and
historic atmosphere make Zhouzhuang a memorable way to experience of the water
towns and the China of centuries gone by.
Old Zhouzhuang is several square miles of closely built houses along the
shores of a network of canals, threaded by narrow streets. The town center
developed where four canals intersected in the shape of a "#". Clustered around
the main intersections are the more lavish traditional homes, shops, and the two
historic bridges that have become a symbol of Zhouzhuang. One is the quaint
"Twin Bridge", where two bridges link to cross a pair of canals. The other is
the much larger Fu'an Bridge (the Bridge of Peace and Prosperity) Connecting two
of the town's most lively shopping streets, the bridge itself became piece of
prime real estate, and several stories of shops and restaurants perch on each of
the bridges corners. The tops of these towers are traditional restaurants and
tea shops, with wide windows looking over the canals and the lively streets.
Having a meal or a quick snack here is not only a tasty break from sightseeing,
but a great way to soak up the unique atmosphere of the water towns! Once you've
crossed the bridges, try a quick boat tour through the canals - they're even
more charming when you're gliding beneath them in a traditional skiff.
Since the canals were the main means of transporting goods around Zhouzhuang,
it's streets are quite narrow - in many places the eaves of the houses almost
meet in the middle, keeping the road dry even in the rain! The houses lining the
narrow streets have almost all been preserved, and many of the small street side
stores have today sell folk handicrafts and charming local products, like
embroidery, hand carved combs, woodcarvings, and silks. Other stores have been
set up as they were centuries ago with craftsmen working in the traditional
ways, to give visitors a better sense of what life in a water town was really
like. You can see blacksmiths, basket weavers, embroidery studios, a traditional
pharmacy stoked with jars of roots, leaves, and mysterious dried animal parts
best left alone!
The mansions of two local wealthy families have been restored and are
fascinating to explore. The Zhang family mansion and the Shen family mansion
share a common layout, but each has its own special features. Entering the
mansions from the street, you pass through several similar waiting rooms -
ordinary business would be handled in the front rooms, while honored guests and
close family friends would be recieved in the inner rooms. All of the sitting
rooms are decorated with period furniture and decoration. In the Shen mansion,
look up at the top of the side walls in the inner sitting rooms and you'll
notice two small windows. In the past, unmarried women were not allowed to meet
guests, so from the upper stories they would peek down and see the visitors.
Often the daughters of the family would spy down on potential grooms, and if
they were satisfied, a marriage might be arranged. Beyong the sitting rooms lie
the private living room, where the family might read, play chess or cards, or
practice music. From here stairs lead up to the second story, which held the
most private rooms - the study, library, and various bedrooms. The Zhang mansion
also has a small traditional garden nestled in around the surrounding buildings.
Both houses have private docks at the rear - the Zhang mansion even has a small
square pond to boats could turn around! The Shen mansion originally extended all
the way to the edge of the front canal, so that goods could be unloaded directly
into the building, connected to the rest of the building by an overhead
bridge.
While Zhouzhuang is a splendid example of a traditional Chinese water town,
it is hardly a lifeless museum. Most of the buildings are still home to the
families who have lived there for centuries; many of the skiffs plying the
canals are not filled with tourists, but storekeepers making their deliveries;
and neighbors coming from the market still pause on the charming stone bridges
for a quick chat.
