






Wuxi is often called the "Pearl of Lake Taihu," and the best place to see
the beauty of the lake is from the gardens of the Yuan Tou Zhu peninsula and its
nearby islands. Yuan Tou Zhu literally means "the Head of the
Dragon-Turtle," inspired the way the peninsula dramatically juts out into the
lake. Tai Hu literally means the "Great Lake," a fitting name since it is
the 3rd largest lake in China. Yuan Tou Zhu has been visited and admired
by poets, painters, and tourists for centuries. In almost every dynasty
famous poets have left poems praising the area's striking natural beauty and
tranquil atmosphere. Although it has been a well known scenic spot for
centuries, the area was first made into a garden in the late 19th century, and
the narrow bridges and pavilions seen today date from this period. Several
successful Wuxi businessmen bought much of peninsula and turned it into their
country estates, where they find relief from the stress of their work by
admiring the natural landscape.
The pavilions, bridges, and small ponds of the lakeside gardens are designed
to accentuate the beauty of the natural landscape, not create an artificial
landscape as many traditional Chinese gardens try to do, especially those in
Suzhou. While this takes advantage of such an exceptional setting, it is also
the result of a difference in culture and attitude. Many other classical gardens
were created by officials as a retreat from the outside world, with its stresses
and politics. Their walled gardens were an attempt to create alternate
natural environment as an escape from the outside world. In
contrast, Yuan Tou Zhu was laid out by successful merchants and businessmen with
a more optimistic and confident outlook. They came to the shores of Tai Hu
Lake for pleasure and relaxation, and to entertain friends, not to escape the
demands of the outside world, and the design of the gardens reflects this
different motivation.
The most beautiful part of Yuan Tou Zhu is at the tip of the
peninsula. Rocky cliffs carved with ancient calligraphy loom near small
ponds teeming with lotus flowers and crossed by arching bridges, while
balustraded causeways curve out into the lake. One side of the peninsula
faces the forested coastline, while on the other side the great lake stretches
out into the distance, its other shore far out of sight. This part of the
garden is especially beautiful in spring, when the countless cherry trees
planted here bloom, their pink and white blossoms contrasting beautifully with
the blue water of the lake and the green hillsides behind. The rest of the
peninsula is laced with narrow trails leading through the woods and down to the
coastline, passing pagodas and pavilions, small shrines and ancient calligraphy
carved into weathered stone tablets.
The best way to experience the beauty of the lake is to take a boat out to
one of the three small islands that lie off the shores of the peninsula. They
are known as the "Islands of Immortals," since classical authors imagined that
Daoist sages and nature spirits would be drawn to a place of such great natural
beauty, and also separated from the human world by the lake. Although the
immortals aren't frequent visitors today, their legends have inspired a range of
scenic spots hidden beneath the islands' trees.One of the most impressive is a
giant bronze statue of Lao-tzu, its green patina blending with the surrounding
forests. Many other small temples and dot the islands. Boats run to and
from the islands all day, and they are included in the price of admission to the
garden. Some tour groups also arrange for cruises on historic seven masted
junks, once used as fishing boats but now restored for tourism. Cruising
the lake on these classic ships is unique and memorable way to experience the
lake.